Sunday, October 24, 2010

Home Town

October 24, 2010
Day 44

Arriving Home

It was the perfect decision to make a visit with the Swopes our final family visit on the trip.  Virginia, when she heard we were coming, changed dinner plans and baked a roast, mashed potatoes, made a garden fresh salad, and baked a lemon meringue pie!  What a glorious homecoming meal that was.  We visited through the evening and headed to bed early from a long day’s drive.

We woke up to a cool Yakima morning, fresh rain saturated the ground, the sun was shining warm and trees were lit in yellow and orange.  We had fresh fried eggs, hot toast, freezer jam in three varieties, raw fried potatoes and perfectly seasoned, lightly salty sausage.  The wood stove heated the house and warmed us up for the final leg of the drive home.  One last washing on the car windows and reloading of the luggage and we’re heading home.  But, not without a stop at a Yakima fruit stand.  In the remaining space of the car we squeeze in winter squash, apples, potatoes, a few zucchini, tomatoes – red and green, garlic, onions and enough fresh green beans for one dinner.  Plus a large pumpkin to decorate the back door!

The fall color tour is on its last lap, but not short of color.  As we leave the pine trees of eastern Washington we move into the Doug Fir and Hemlock of western Washington.  That brings the rain and golden colors of Washington’s hardwoods.  Only the occasional vine maple streaks through with its red and orange flame.  The closer we get to the summit the heavier the rain.  We stop in North Bend at the T – Tweeds Café made famous in the TV series Twin Peaks.  Soup of the day on Sunday is homemade chili with cheese and onions on top.  One bowl each we order.  It arrives almost immediately in two heavy ceramic bowls.  The Seattle Times is scattered about and we read local news and politics and find that it’s absolutely identical to everything we’ve seen in our travels: politicians talking in clichés and pointing fingers.  Thirty minutes later we’re ready to leave and the rain is coming down sideways mixed with swirling, soggy maple leaves and we know for sure we’re in home country.

The rain pour most of the way home.  Across Highway 18 and south on I-5 and we pull into our drive.  Jack unpacks the suitcases and various bags of souvenirs and tubs of gear that we’ve schlepped across the country and back.  I open and sort the mail, or should I say I separate the political adds from the bills and business mail.  Three twelve inch piles of mail are reduced to one pile of magazines and about 22 necessary pieces of mail.

We start laundry and change into sweats.  The chili we had for lunch turns out to also be dinner.  Slowly the adrenaline of the drive wears off and we make a protein drink and watch 60 Minutes.  We are re-entering our life in Olympia.

You Can't Go Back - Pullman

Day 43
October 23, 2010

Morning tea, toast and oatmeal.  Off to yoga with John and Tina.  Being part of a full yoga class and working through the poses that stretch and strengthen remind me that my traveling routine hasn’t really been challenging me very much.  After yoga we say our good byes and head to Pullman along the back road.

Rural Washington only varies slightly from all the other rural towns we’ve seen.  A few lone barns succumbing to gravity, big barns, small barns, horse barns, farm houses and equipment in fields all look familiar.  Small towns come and go.  The line between farm and natural landscape is easily drawn.  Where farm lines stop desert scrub begins.  The fields here are not flat like those left behind, but roll across the curve of the earth in swelling mounds and steep slopes.  Some of the fields are freshly plowed dark open hills, others are freshly cut stubble and still others show the fresh hint of velvety green sprouting winter crops. This is land that grows crops without the benefit of irrigation.

We’re in the Palouse, home the WSU Cougars and the place where we first met.  We envisioned a sunny eastern Washington afternoon stroll across the campus with dry leaves crunching beneath our feet.  It’s raining.

We pull into town past the old Rosauer’s grocery.  It’s now a Barnes & Nobles that also serves as a Bookie.  We’re headed to the original Bookie located across from my old dorm, McCroskey Hall.  This is the place where we bought our textbooks, Cougar wear and other minor necessities of campus living.  We find a parking spot next to the Bookie at a building that is now an Interfaith Center.  Two young men, perhaps from India park in front of us and feed the meter.  The Bookie is just a few steps behind us.  Remarkably quiet for a Saturday, it’s closed.  All the business has been re-routed to the Barnes & Noble.  So we head to the CUB to sit in the old Cougar Union Building.  Another Barnes & Noble, Subway & Starbucks greet us.  We browse the sweatshirts, but something seems all wrong to be in a Barnes & Noble store for our Cougar wear.  Maybe we’ll go to the old creamery and get some Cougar Gold cheese and have some of creamery fresh ice cream.  We know the original location has been moved and we ask directions.  “The only weekends they’re open for is home games.” we’re told.  It just doesn’t fit.  I’ve picked out a new sweatshirt and a few gifts and we head to the register.  One station is just closing and the clerk asks one of the people stocking candy if they can wait on us.  A young, pony-tailed co-ed sighs and rolls her eyes and asks her male counterpart if he can help.  He hesistates to think a minute.  Another young man appears from around the aisle and pleasantly rings us up. 

We’re a bit disappointed.  It’s been a long time since we’ve walked the campus and there have been a lot of changes.  There is no activity on campus.  It’s drizzling rain and the air is cold.  The students are huddled up somewhere behind closed doors and pulled curtains recovering from Friday night or just enjoying a quiet Saturday morning.  We walk the long way back to the car and take pictures for old time’s sake. 

One thing that hasn’t changed is that the campus rolls a bit up hill and down on a smaller scale than the surrounding farm land.  There are steps everywhere.  I feel a little burn in the legs and a shortness of breath.  I tell Jack, “I use to scamper up and down these hills without a second thought 20, oops 30, years ago.”  It’s funny.  I graduated from WSU in1971.  It’s been almost 40 years ago. 

We pull out of town and Cougar country farms gradually recede along the long straight stretch of Highway 26.  Long lines of pivoting irrigation stations on wheels start to appear in the fields.  Orchards, some still bearing apples now crop up.  This is a land that grows crops using water from wells and the Columbian Basin Irrigation Project.  Breaks between farms are classic eastern Washington desert.  Sage brush and rabbit brush grow in clumps and sprouts between native bunch grass and the invasive cheat grass that is trying to take over.  We are on the edge of the Hanford Nuclear Area. 

We could make it home tonight, but it would be dark traveling for several hours and we’d arrive late.  It doesn’t seem right to end this way.  Conveniently located at the end of the day are Jack’s Aunt Virginia, Uncle Jim, and his cousin Bob. We call and invite ourselves to stay the night.  It’ll still be late and Jack wants to eat at a Mexican (again) restaurant in Othello, so we tell them we’ll have eaten.  We pass through Othello, not quite hungry and the Mexican restaurant is out of business.  We call Swopes and suggest we bring in some bacon and eggs and make ourselves dinner when we arrive.  There’s been a big misunderstanding and Virginia is cooking a roast and corn thinking we’re coming to dinner!  Halleluiah!  Another home cooked dinner with family awaits us.

Welcome to Washington - A visit with my brother's family...

Day 42
October 22, 2010



It feels a bit like the last day of our vacation.  Today we enter Washington.  We have plans to keep the vacation spirit.  We’ll visit my brother John and his family in Spokane and then go on to Pullman – home of WSU, our alma mater.

We travel west along I-90 out of Montana.  One small side road slows down our pace a bit and we travel alongside the Clark River.  A small fishing pullout out has a picnic table and we take the opportunity to make lunch.  The air is cold, the sun is warm, the river flows quietly, trees rise up on both sides of the river.  We spread out the paper towels, lunch meat and garlic cheese curds bought in Wisconsin.  Our condiments are thin, so I mix a big squeeze of brown mustard with a little scoop of plain yogurt and spread it on all sides of the hearty wheat bread and proceed to pile on the meat and cheese.  Wrapped all in paper towels we dine in fine style. 

The mountains remain rocky and the larch, fir and pine mingle in large bands of green and yellow.  In places, the larch predominates and rolls over the hills in big yellow patches.  An occasional maple, quaking aspen, or cottonwood add brief glimpses of orange and brown.  The fall color tour continues.  We’d seen the larch along the east coast, but it’s reappearance here is far more dominate.  This is a marketable evergreen that actually changes colors and eventually drops it’s needles.  The sun is bright and when it lights the larch a beautiful golden light radiates through the forest.

Our new friend from the Safeway parking lot yesterday tells us that the weather has been unusually good this year.  Normally snow would cover the ground.  We did bring chains for that very possibility, but with the exception of a few very wet days in Vermont and some very hot days in New Mexico, the weather has been idyllic.  We’ve been blessed for sure.

The long stretches of interstate and short drives along the scenic bypass don’t offer many safe photo opportunities.  The expanse and majesty of it are hard to express and even harder to capture on film.  We pull into a rest stop that has very good views of the surrounding hillsides and Jack is a happy photographer for a few brief minutes. Information posted on two platforms tells the story of the original road built here in the late 1800s.  In four months, ending in December over 100 miles of road were cut, leveled and bridged. A quote in this transcript says it far better than I, “The scenery was the wildest ever gazed upon, and grand if so feeble a word can be used to properly express anything in this amazing mountain range.”  Randall Hewitt, 1862.

Leaving Montana and entering Idaho we are along the lowlands with mountains towering high above.  Looking out the window layers of stratified rock stare back at me.  Perched perfectly on the low ridgeline at the freeway exit into Wallace is a perfect flaming hardwood.  Red at the crown, quickly fading to shades of orange and yellow.  With the sun lighting it from above it glows.  We’ve entered Pacific Daylight time.  My watch, which has never been reset to the local times of the areas we traveled, now reads the time correctly once again.  Wallace, Idaho is a worth stop.  A old mining town, it’s an easy and fun walk through the main street.  An antique store has a sign for tea shop inside.  Well we’re tea drinkers and this is a definite temptation.  We’ve had plenty of tea on the trip: weak tea, tea brewed in lukewarm water, tea brewed in water stored in a pot that sometimes serves coffee, tea in styrofoam cups, paper cups, and the occasional mug, generic tea, popular brands of tea, but not tea that s really brewed hot, in a pot, in a tea cup.  Not that kind of cup of tea. In a corner of the shop are five tables fully set with silver, linen tablecloths and napkins rolled in silver rings. We order a pot of tea, but the waitress insists we have a small plate of sweets with it.  As our teapot is preheating she brings us a small fruit plate of melons, red grapes and black grapes so sweet with delicate fruit forks to pluck delicacies from the plate.  China cups and saucers, raw sugar, cream and a plate of cookies, breads, scones, and lemon butter-way more than we want or need. Our tea has steeped and it steams rich and amber into our cups.  We’re in heaven.

An hour later we are welcomed at my brother John’s house, a nice change from the chain of motels we’ve stayed in.  Warm and inviting and so close to home.  Shortly after Tina arrives and groceries are unloaded.  We visit a while and take a walk through the neighborhood before dinner.  On the perimeter of the neighborhood we walk a trail for about 2 miles.  We walk around and down a few hills and out to the Little Spokane River where deer are feeding in a field.  The hill seems a longer climb back and I need to pause and drink while John and Jack can talk and walk without missing a beat.  Home cooked burgers with quality beef, home baked fries, salad and berry cobbler with ice cream.  It’s all good – food, conversations, Phillies on TV and finally we sleep.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Big Sky

Day 40
Wednesday  October 20, 2010

Montana

Two words – Big Sky!  It fits.  It just seems we’re riding on top of the world.  Big feather clouds sweep from the horizon clear across the sky.  Fields are neatly cropped with fences, but no farmhouses to give a hint of who owns or works this land.  About mid-day, rather abruptly, we enter into a wooded section of the highway.  Farmland gives way to big pine trees that begin to come into view.  Lines of cottonwood glow golden in the sun.  No reds from the east coast, but big clusters of sunlit gold.

We began the day at a state park walking along a Badlands trail.  This is an area where dinosaurs roamed.  It is harsh and dry.  The trail takes you into a small section where you can see and feel the sandy surface of the muddy deposits that formed this land.  Because the deposits include hard and soft material the erosion is uneven.  Softer soil is worn away by wind and water leaving small capstones on the tops of pillars.  The trail is narrow and loose gravel lends itself to unstable footing.  In spots I freeze up afraid to go on, but Jack’s encouraging and comes back to give me a hand. 

We leave and travel on to the site of Custer’s Last Stand.- a badland in a totally different way.  It’s quite a long ways away and we arrive with 90 minutes so try and experience it all.  Smaller than Gettysburg it feels the same.  This war, also known as the Battle of Little Bighorn lasted two days in 1876.  June 25 & 26.  Many lives were lost in battle.  We drive the five mile loop trail and read some of the signs or read from the brochure about how the battle was fought.  Each side advancing and retreating until, in the end, the Indians win the battle.  Custer is not only defeated.  He and his unit of men are dead along with his brother, two nephews and a brother-in-law. 

The Lakota, Sioux and Cheyenne won the battle but in the end they lost the war.  Ultimately, the Plains Indians knew that they either had to fight until they are all were dead or surrender their nomadic lifestyle and culture to the reservation.  But even then, they were not safe.  Once gold was found on their reservation fortune seekers came looking for gold.  With no regard for the treaty they entered the reservation and took what they wanted.  The government tried to buy that land from the Indians, but they refused.  Further battles and many more deaths followed. 

Gravestones mark the place where soldiers fell during the two days of battle.  When the fighting ended the Indians took their dead and left the battlefield.  Many spears were left behind. Looking across the grassy field now it’s hard to imagine this blood soaked land.  Running through the center of this land is the Little Bighorn River.  Today bright yellow cottonwoods line the river and the scene looks so peaceful that it’s hard to imagine the fighting, the dust, the smoke and the gunfire.  The dust and smoke were so thick that rifles were tossed aside and hand guns were used.  Indians fought knowing that their lives and their culture were threatened.  It's an interesting, but sad day.

Both sides suffered great losses.  Over 259 of Custer’s men died.  Oral records count the number of killed Indians to be between 50 and 300.  Surviving soldiers buried the dead and marked their graves.  Many of the dead were known by name as they were officers.  Others were only known only by the rank on their uniforms.  All the graves were marked by scratching names or rank on broken spears and then driving the stake into the ground where the soldier was buried.  Later, marble headstones replaced the stakes.  In some places a lone headstone stands on a hill.  In other places small clusters of two or three or four markers show where men died.  And still other sites have many headstones – the sites of the strongest conflict.  Red stone markers show the places where Indians fell.  Because fallen Indians were carried away from the battlefield, the headstones are placed in locations that have been identified through oral records.

A few days ago we saw a map of the United States before Europeans came.  Every square inch bore a tribal name.  We know the story of what happened.  There seems no way to undo it all.  But in the days following Custer’s battle it wasn’t just a war that was lost.  It was a culture, a lifestyle, a nation of people that were forever changed.

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Buffalo Moon

Buffalo Moon

Our final stop is at Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  It encompasses part of North Dakota’s Badlands. We’ve had a busy day and question whether or not the ranger station will be open.  We move from mountain time to central time about two minutes before we enter the park and in just the blink of eye we lose an hour.  Lucky us!  It’s 30 minutes before they close.  A few quick ideas from the ranger, a map, and an interpretive brochure and we’re headed 14 miles to the lookout at the end of the road.

The park brochure tells us that the Badlands are an area of low hills that were “formed 60 million years ago when streams carried eroded material eastward from the young Rocky Mountains and deposited them in these vast lowlands.”  60 million years ago dinosaurs roamed the earth.  Mother Nature has been working on these hills a very long time.  What we see today are a series of small rounded hills nestled and layered together.  The hills are nearly bare and the bands of geologic deposits are stacked one upon another clear to the top of the hill.  One of Mother Nature’s gifts was to create ‘slumps’.  As water flowed at the base of the hill it caused enough erosion to wash out part of the base and it ‘slumped’ downhill just enough to create other small rounds or protrusions that look like giant, carved horse hooves lined up along the base.  It’s a bit like a jigsaw puzzle and when we look closely we can see where the slumps would fit onto the mountain if we just match the bands.

What we see are layers of sediment deposits piled one upon the other in a near monotone with shades of grey, brown, and orange.  This blends nicely into the surrounding landscape of prairie grasses, scraggly brush and juniper.  Some of the layers are made of harder material than the layers above and below.  With time erosion has erased enough of the deposits above and below to show these layers like little shelves or benches. 

Shortly after we pass a sign saying, “Buffalo are dangerous.  View at a distance.”  we come to several buffalo at a scenic pullout.  Some have their heavy heads bowed seemingly content to chew the grass that rims the parking area.  The sun has been out all day and has heated up the blacktop. Two massive buffalo recline in regal repose collecting that heat so as to remember warmer days when the snow flies.  Wanting a picture, Jack drives closer and closer.  I’m surprised he doesn’t run over the tail of the beast.  Rolling down the window he pokes his camera about two feet from the buffalo’s head.  “MOVE THE CAR!” I say, ever so gently and with increasing alarm.  “I’m fine.  It’s fine,” he replies trying to calm me down.  As the buffalo slowly rises up from the blacktop Jack winces.  “MOVE THE CAR NOW!” I repeat.  Dropping the camera on his lap and putting the car in gear we roll away. 

“You were startled weren’t you?” I asked.  “No I wasn’t.” he insists.  We go back and forth about this for a while and he finally admits that he was surprised, but not startled.  Whatever. 

As we continue up to the overlook we see wild turkeys, big horned sheep, deer and raptors.  The overlook gives us a sweeping view of the distant hills and the Little Missouri snaking through the valley.  We return to walk a small trail along the base of one of the canyons.  A big buffalo pie sits at the head of the trail. I read on the sign in log that a previous hiker left the trail because of the presence of buffalo.  I panic.  I get a bit worked up about the possibility of encountering a buffalo on foot. Jack is flitting about capturing the fleeting photos of the day.  My nerves still jitter, but then I tell myself to just feel the power and history of the buffalo and my fear is gone.  I enjoy the remainder of the trail.

We’ve had a full day.  A three quarter moon is rising over the hills to the east.  Behind us the sunset is starting to color the clouds and band the sky in pinks and purples.  The hills absorb a hint of color as we head to Montana for our B & B in growing darkness.  This area is so rural and towns are so small that the road is quickly enveloped in total darkness.  Fog stripes along the side of the road and yellow center lines show the way.

Finding Lewis and Clark

Go West Young Man!

The rural landscape gives us uninterrupted satellite radio.  No high mountains or deep canyons to interrupt the signal.  Now, if only cell phone coverage was as good.

Quite by accident we find a Lewis & Clark Museum in Washburn.  Jack wanted to pull over and read maps.  I suggest the gas station to the left, he goes right.  Lucky me, we spent the next 45 minutes touring the Lewis and Clark Expedition Museum which has a nice overview of the their expedition.  On the lawn outside the building steel buffalo walk alongside the side walk.  Larger than life  steel sculptures of Lewis, Clark and Sacajawea are gathered in a circle having a conference.  

President Thomas Jefferson commissioned them to explore the land beyond the Louisiana Purchase and to find a water passage to the Pacific.  They took a group of about 40 and explored the territory.  Lewis made extensive notes and drawings.  Clark – not so many.  The notes were published on their return, but only the adventurous side of their sensational expedition was published.  Over 100 new scientific discoveries, including new species of plants were recorded in their journals.  The media then, much like it is now, was more interested in the ‘adventure’ than the science.  The hardships of the travel, living through the winter, encounters with the Indians all these fascinated people more than the scientific discoveries.  These had to wait for over one hundred years to be published. By then, others had made the same discoveries, but the original credit goes to Lewis and Clark. 

Nearby is Fort Mandan where the expedition wintered in 1804.  They came prepared with food, gunpowder, lead, vinegar (for scurvy) blacksmithing tools – everything they needed except winter clothes.  They had brought about four dozen Hudson Bay wool coats which were inadequate in both number and warmth.  These were cut and sewn into mittens.  Buffalo were hunted and killed for meat and hides.  Buffalo hides could keep them warmer than anything they’d brought.  They arrived in early fall and began construction of the fort Octobe 4, 1804.  It was completed by Christmas.  Small buildings, about 11’ x 9’ were built side by side and shared a chimney.  An officer and a lower ranking member of the expedition slept on the main level.  The officer took the upper bunk while the other slept on the bottom bunk to stoke the fine every half hour or so.  Each room had a lot where 7 to 9 others slept on the floor rolled up in buffalo hides. 

Over time the Missouri River has eroded the original fort.  In 1971 the fort was reconstructed in preparation for the Bicentennial Expedition.  What took Lewis and Clark’s expedition two months to build, took volunteers over 2 years to build.  The original construction crew was highly motivated by the onset of bitter cold and snow and worked night and day to complete the shelter.  Like the Logging Camp Park we saw on our first day of our vacation, this is another example of the willingness to work hard and endure significant hardships for the sake of exploration and adventure.     

Lucky Lunch

A Bowl of Homemade Soup
October 19, 2010

A few miles later Jack’s wanting me to reach in the back seat and grab him an apple.  As if my arms will bend backwards 45 degrees and be able to find the apples hidden among the books, bags, and coats.  He pulls to the shoulder, I tell him to take a left into the small town and find a proper parking spot for me to get out and excavate those apples.  Turns out we’re in Wing, North Dakota. Lost in time, the city has your usual theater, post offices and other necessities.  But, they appear to be original construction from maybe the 1940s or 1950s.  The monotony of contemporary construction has not blighted this small town.  Right in front of us is the Chat and Chew Café.  The apples are forgotten and we go in for tea.  Vinyl covered tables line the wall.  Four or five hunters are spread out at the front table, another table is occupied by a couple just finishing.  We take a seat and look at the menu.  It’s definitely home cookin’ and we’ve been yearning for home style food. A chalkboard by the counter lets us know the daily special, “Zucchini and hamburger with gravy and bread.”   Knoephla soup is one of the options.  It’s a German creamy potato like soup with small dumplings.  There’s nothing about this soup that says it’s good for you except that it’s home made and will nurture the spirit like nothing else today.  We order two bowls and two cups of tea.  The soup needs nothing and is quickly consumed. We order a caramel malt to go.  We can hear the whir of the old fashioned, traditional blender go to work on the scoops of ice cream and caramel.  - 2 soup – A$7.00, 2 tea $1.00, one malt – $3.50 – the best bargain we’ve had so far.

North Dakota Highway Drive


October 19, 2010

We’re in southern North Dakota and it’s cattle country mixed with fields of grain crops all rolled and staggered across the fields.  Herds of cows graze in pastures with natural lakes splattered throughout.  I’d seen signs about swans and said a little prayer to see one.  I do believe our prayers are answered just not always the way we expect.  Later, on one pond I see a flock of large white birds float as a collective all bunched together in the middle of pond.  Swans.  Our two lane highway has no real spot to pull over, so no picture.  A little of god’s humor – swans, but no photo today.  Further down the road are fields of sunflowers.  Past their prime, leaves browned and heads bent down.  They must have been a Van Gogh inspired site in their prime.  Somewhat unexpected are the fields of wind turbines.  Side by side with grazing cattle and newly cut fields of grain windmills sprout in fields of sunflowers.  Tall white spires with wide spread wings that rotate lazily in today’s breeze. Jack thinks they look like a prehistoric pterodactyl.

So many pastures!  Even the right of way alongside the highway is mowed to collect another three to four bales.  Some fields seem to have nothing to cut and bale.  I don’t know what they cut, maybe just prairie grass.  About 55 bee hives are lined up in neat rows in another field.   We take a side graveled road for about 5 minutes looking for a wildlife refuge.  We must have misread the sign as we don’t see it.  So turn around and head west again.

Monday, October 18, 2010

At Last - North Dakota

North Dakota - Prairie Walk

We enter North Dakota without any fanfare.  Driving down a main street in Breckenridge, Minnesota there is an abrupt end of the business district and we are in open prairie land.  No sign welcomes us to North Dakota, just open land.  Looking out the window more open fields and farms, but flat, oh so flat.  I can imagine that if Columbus had lived here he’d have set off on a land schooner to prove that the earth was not flat after all.  An occasional swell in the belly of a field lets us know that it’s not entirely flat.  I think it’s only because we know that there is a curve to the earth that we can see it.  As far as the eye can see that the land is flat, clear to the horizon.  Whether it ends in a cornfield or a line of trees, the horizon seems to just drop off.  We detour to Ft. Ransom State Park and take a small walk.  It’s a prairie and they’ve simply mowed a wide swath through the grass and along the crest of the hillside.  The sun is at our back and there’s a slight breeze.  As we walk and talk the only sound is the brushing of our jackets or the tread of our feet on the path.  A bench sits conveniently at a viewpoint over the small valley.  The trees are silhouetted against the ridgeline.  We pause and sit.  Quiet envelopes us and the only sound is the slight whispering rustle of the wind through the dry grass. 

Farmers and Fishermen: A very short thought

Pollution of the Gulf

At the time of Westward Movement there were over 400,000 acres of prairie ecosystem. Today there remains but a few acres of the original heritage.  It is one of America’s most endangered ecosystems.  We had the good fortune to walk through a prairie remnant called Ft. Ransom State Park.

A Political Point of View: Some rather long thoughts

Leaving Minnesota

An early morning big sky greets us in Coon Rapids, Minnesota.  A low deck of thin clouds spreads across the full line of the eastern sunrise.  Hanging low it brings the sky within reach.  These sweeping patches of cirrus climbing to cumulus clouds stay with us for a good share of the drive.  At 70 mps the miles fly by along I-94 W, but not so fast as to blur the landscape.  We are still in farming country. Big farmhouse with bigger silos snuggled into classic barns sit surrounded by green pastures, corn fields and acres of baled cornstalks that look like hay.  The corn stands dry in fields plowed in prim straight rows.  Fields of corn neatly rolled spread out in front of them.  When the angle and elevation of the fields lines up just right with that of the road you can actually see the corn rows wave and roll as you pass by. “Amber fields of grain” comes to mind, especially when harvesting equipment sits on the edge of the cleared fields with big bins of, what looks like, dried kernels of corn. We find out later that the dried stalks are sometimes harvested for cattle bedding. The rows ripple and flow as we speed by. Cattle graze under the hardwood trees along the way. 

Wind and weather have stripped most of the leaves from the body of the trees.  Bright yellow leaves hang on to the crown and perimeter branches giving the trees a bit of an angelic halo effect when the sun lights up the golden leaves.
Day 38
October 18. 2010
Leaving Minnesota

An early morning big sky greets us in Coon Rapids, Minnesota.  A low deck of thin clouds spreads across the full line of the eastern sunrise.  Hanging low it brings the sky within reach.  These sweeping patches of cirrus climbing to cumulus clouds stay with us for a good share of the drive.  At 70 mps the miles fly by along I-94 W, but not so fast as to blur the landscape.  We are still in farming country. Big farmhouse with bigger silos snuggled into classic barns sit surrounded by green pastures, corn fields and acres of baled cornstalks that look like hay.  The corn stands dry in fields plowed in prim straight rows.  Fields of corn neatly rolled spread out in front of them.  When the angle and elevation of the fields lines up just right with that of the road you can actually see the corn rows wave and roll as you pass by. “Amber fields of grain” comes to mind, especially when harvesting equipment sits on the edge of the cleared fields with big bins of, what looks like, dried kernels of corn. We find out later that the dried stalks are sometimes harvested for cattle bedding. The rows ripple and flow as we speed by. Cattle graze under the hardwood trees along the way. 

Wind and weather have stripped most of the leaves from the body of the trees.  Bright yellow leaves hang on to the crown and perimeter branches giving the trees a bit of an angelic halo effect when the sun lights up the golden leaves.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

They Call These Mountains

Day 38

October 17, 2010

The traveler’s angel must have taken pity on us last night as we fled the Bed Bug Inn.  With no reservation for another room from the manager we launched ourselves west to find a better bed for the night.  As we headed north and west a bright half moon hung over our shoulder.  Clouds drifted over it and the moon lit up the clouds and the surrounding sky like a spot light.  We took it as a good omen as it followed us up the dark and lonely highway.  We were a ways from the next hotel, but luckily we found a big, clean room.  We checked the bed, checked in, brushed our teeth, feel into bed, and didn’t move until about 8:00 the next morning.  Best Western was our salvation from the dark and lonely night.  Even better news was coming.  They had a guest laundry just three doors down from our room.  We had a lazy morning.  Started laundry and went to the restaurant attached to the hotel.  I never eat like this, but today I had steak, eggs, hash browns, and toast with hot tea for breakfast!  It must have been the stressful night, because I ate it all.  We washed clothes, showered, did laundry, repacked and left about 1:00 PM heading for Minnesota.

We have hills on our golf courses bigger than some of the hills they call mountains here, but the landscape is really changing.  The ‘mountains’ are now showing more of a peak and not a rolling series of rounded hills.  There are actually rocky formations showing through the trees and it’s beginning to look a lot like home.  We just drift through the day going from town to town.  We stop at local food stands and buy new varieties of apples to try.  Jack buys a squash to bake when we get home.  Nobody knows the name of it, but they all agree it’s one of he best.  We’re missing our own home cooked food.  Meat loaf baked potato and squash sound better every day.  We slip into a side road that takes us along the Mississippi and to a mountain that stands in the middle of the river, Trempealeau Mountains.  What we see looks only about 400’ and a bit like a small wooded island, but they call it a mountain and we take the requisite tourist photo.  Later we come to Nelson Creamery.  Did you know there are places where you can get a really delicious scoop of creamery ice cream for only $1.00?  Well we found that place today.  We picked up some of the local cheese to try as we continue our way west.  Across the street the local American Legion is having a fund raiser and that’s where Jack can no longer resist the squash temptation.  We add our goodies to the car and keep going. 

I’d been hoping to make it to the Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum in Pepin, WI.  By now, it’s 4:50 and I know that it’ll take a miracle to get there in time.  The sign says, “Open Daily 9-5”.  The clock says 5:05.  I check the museum door just to make sure some faithful employee isn’t still working away, but no.  They are closed.  That just gives me one more reason to return I guess.  The miles fly by and we’re getting closer to our motel.  I’m driving and turn off to switch with Jack and there right before our eyes is yet another Mexican restaurant.  They are everywhere.  We’ve eaten more Mexican food on this trip than when we went to New Mexico I swear.  But it’s handy, turns out it’s good and has a few different items, and we don’t have to look later for a place to eat.  The whole place is rented out for a party, except for the bar where we eat.  We can hear the festivities and kids are running everywhere.  The restroom’s crowded and while I wait a little girl changes into a beautiful, bright green, floor length, dress with a hoop slip that makes it stand out all around her.  She puts on her bright green wings and they return to the party.  I wish I could see what it’s all about.  We’re about ready to leave as they turn on the microphone and make a few announcements.  The mariachi band starts up just as we leave.  It’s been a good day.

Bed Bug Bedlam: Part II

Bedbug Bedlam
October 16 & 17, 2010
12:00 AM to 2:00 AM

When I taught high school I had a knack for finding plagiarism in student papers.  It all started with just a slight hint that something was amiss.  A clever phrase, a vocabulary word that didn’t quite fit the student, or maybe it was a series of well articulated facts.  I wanted to believe it was all original work, but just a few words typed into Google or AltaVista usually revealed the original authors.  It was just a knack, something I was good at.
                                                   
Well it seems I’ve got the same knack for bedbugs.  Yes, that’s right.  Bedbugs again!  It’s not that I didn’t trust the local economy chain, it’s just that the room didn’t seem quite right.  It wasn’t that the towels were small and thin, or that there was just a trace of mold around the handrails in the bathtub.  It wasn’t even the Hershey wrapper on the floor, or even that the sheets that were long past good use for the traveling tourist, it was just that nagging doubt.  So, I checked the beds.  On first inspection I just found one pair of very thin sheets with small holes on one bed and a better pair on the other.  We picked ‘the other’ for sleep and the first for suitcases as there were no luggage racks, counter tops or tables.  At first I didn’t see the pesty little critters.

Tired from a big day in Chicago and a couple hours drive to Wisconsin we carted our stuff in, brushed our teeth, checked the beds and went to the pool to just work out some of the kinks we’d collected in the car.  We returned to the room and propped ourselves up on the bed with the pillows and watched an old episode of Criminal Minds.  It ended and we turned the TV off.  Jack went to brush his teeth and I pulled the covers back.  YIKES!  EEK!  And OMG!  Sure enough.  A little coffee bean like critter scampered across the bed, another was under the pillow and then we spied one or two scurrying behind the headboard.  I yelped and Jack wandered back around the corner to see what freaked me out this time.  He could see the little nuisance as it streaked to his side of the bed.

With a mumbled “oh shit”, Jack pulled on his t-shirt , pulled up his jeans and went to talk to the manager.  He’ll put us in another room he says, but when he knocks on Room 214 someone answers. It turns out there’s no room at the Inn.  He dutifully calls around and there are no vacancies in the area as there’s a local dance competition.  Everything is booked.   It’s now 1:00 AM.  We’re fleeing the place just as fast as we can.  Now, we’re on our own to find a room tonight.  They offer to refund our room, obviously.  They’ll even pay for whatever room we find.  But I’m traumatized and it’s late and this is our second experience with bed bugs. 

NPR ran a story that we heard on the first day of our travels.  A national bedbug expert discussed the current ‘epidemic’ that was impacting not just hotels, but theaters, schools,  and other places where people gather in groups.  He said it can happen in the best of facilities as well as, obviously, the worst.  For us, it’s been in places that are a bit suspicious in the first place.  Bedbugs look like miniature coffee beans with legs.  They like to hang out at the head of the bed, in the mattress binding and between the mattress and the box springs.  They even like to gather behind the headboards.  They are attracted to heat and moisture, which is why they tend to gather at the head of the bed. The NPR expert said he’s been known to not only take the bedding off and look between the mattress and box springs, but that he’s gone so far as to take down headboards.  Hotels and motels don’t like that he warned.  And, if he doesn’t find bedbugs, but is still suspicious he rearranges the bedding and sleeps at the foot of the bed!  Another caution is to never put your suitcase on the floor or the bed, but to only put it on hard surfaces like tables and dresser tops or luggage racks.  All these hints we’ve been following.  An extra precaution is to put everything in your laundry room and wash everything that was in your suitcase when you get home, just in case you weren’t the only ones traveling.  The ‘epidemic’ isn’t really here yet he says, but I tend to disagree.  Lucky us!  We found a nice, clean Best Western.  They had a guest laundry right down the hall from our room.  We got a late check out and spent the morning watching Sunday new and doing laundry.

Chicago - What to do?

Saturday,October 16, 2010
Day 37

What to do?  What to do?

What to do?  What to do?
Should we go, or should we stay.
 It felt like a bit of a country song. 
We just needed some steel guitar
to accompany our thoughts. 

Getting into Chicago went all wrong
Herded  like cattle from the range
Six million strong - bumping along
Looking for something to eat
And a place to stay.

Citco for gas and we’ve gotta pee
Oh My God!  This place is so dirty
It’s easier for Jack than me
But I manage without touchin’ a thing
Back in the car
I give that sanitizer a great big squeeze.

Across the road is South America Chicken
Pollo Brasil with beans, salad, corn and more
Waiting for you to just pick one
We only have chicken - that’s all senor
We chat in English, the others in Espanol

It’s good, we lick our fingers and smile
Is the traffic better?
Can we make it a few more miles?
I-90 to 94 a few short turns
We’re nearly there
Around the block one more time
Pull in the drive – we’ve arrived.

We crash on the bed
Not a word is said
Until we both can breathe again
Tomorrow?
Do we stay? Or do we go?
In the morning-
Jack thinks we’ll know.

Twenty miles into town!
Now don’t you frown
We’ll take the El
It’s easy as --- well
Bad directions – the place is locked
The hotel help is really shocked!

Do we stay? Or do we go?

Back at the hotel
I can hardly believe
All the things we’re not
Going to see.
Could it be so bad?
Maybe we’ll drive
Ourselves Into the city
And take a river boat ride.

Right and left the buildings soar
Five hundred feet and more
Old and new they stand beside
The river’s shore
The sun is out so before it’s dark
We take a walk to Millenium Park

A little dinner
A hug and a smile
We’re back in the car
And drive a few miles
To Wisconsin.

On the road again!

Friday, October 15, 2010

Graveyard Lunch -

October 15, 2010

Day 37

Graveyard Lunch

We drift off I-90 West to find some Claritin D.  CVS doesn’t sell it without Illinois identification.  Walgreen’s does.  Now we think we need ice and as we’re heading out of town we stop at WalMart.  One 7# bag of ice and a spare Claritin in hand we’re assessing our lunch options. We’re hungry and lunch is usually something from the cooler.  Generally we find a roadside park, rest stop, or scenic pullout big enough to eat our leftovers, cheese and crackers or granola and yogurt.  We are definitely hungry, but the WalMart parking lot seems to be stooping too low, so we head out.

We’re on another route from National Geographic’s Guide to Scenic Highways and Byways. ( A recommended must buy for this kind of trip.) This is another section of Mennonite and Amish country.  We’ve seen their horses tethered at grocery stores and pharmacies. 



They ride through the busy streets of town hugging the margins of the road the way bicyclists do in Olympia.  In fact, several of them are on bicycles and we pass one riding a recumbent bike along the back roads. 

So we’re taking in the sites.  Horses standing head to tail in the pastures, laundry drying in the autumn breeze, cattle grazing in fields of cut corn.  This is a more progressive group than we experienced in New York.  We can tell by their clothing that they are either Mennonite or Amish, but they are using power mowers in their yard and are shopping at CVS and WalMart.  One grey bearded man, hair tucked into his wide brimmed hat, drives an antique tractor through town hauling a small cart filled with his purchases.  A young mother pulls out on her bicycle with an infant carriage attached. We pass them driving their buggies everywhere.  They cue up behind the cars to make left hand turns and scoot to the edges when freight trucks roar past.  A buggy passes trailing the sounds of a boom box playing something that sounds a lot like rock and roll.  Another passes and a young man waves, a cigarette hanging out of his mouth.  We pass a small cart being hauled by two ponies, beside it a young girl bicycles visiting as the move down the road.  They are everywhere and blend in with all other sorts of transportation around them.

We found a shady spot under a maple tree, complete with a picnic table next to shocks of corn bundled and tied tipi style 



It all sits beside a Mennonite church and graveyard. Once again we’re eating with local church people, only this time they’re pretty quiet.  We eat our leftover Mexican pork and shrimp and walk through the graveyard. Some have lived long lives, others are simply labeled infant son of Abner and Irene.   Some of the names are freshly carved into the granite tombstones, others have faded over time. They are clustered in family groups with early ancestors born as far back as 1890s.  The names repeat and become familiar showing a long family lineage as part of this community.  Even though there is more evidence of participating in modern culture here, it is going to be a real study in contrasts when we finally park the car in Chicago tonight – a city of six million people.

Oberlin College and the Boxer Rebellion

At a mid-afternoon break we take a walk on Oberlin College, the first college to desegregate enrollment.  It’s a beautiful fall day on a college campus. 



The entrance has a clever statue carving that looks different from different angles.  This symbolizes the ideals behind the school.  Learning to learn from different perspectives.  The walk leads on to monument honoring Oberlin missionaries killed in the Boxer Rebellion in China.  The rebellion opposed the western imperialist expansion into China, opium trade, economic and political conflict and evangelical missionaries.  Something strikes me as inconsistent on the one hand their guiding principal is seeing the world from different perspectives, but they sent missionaries to China to change their perspective in the late 1890s.

The POLICE: Part II

The Police Part 2

Jack decides to take a picture and exits right only to find that we route left and through another toll station that gladly reads our E-Z pass and we sail through to nearby photo opportunity of Ohio’s farms and fields.  He’s pulled onto what looks an access road for farm equipment to enter and exit the fields.  Running back and forth across the road he clicks away taking his scenic shots of the neighborhood. Finished he scurries back to the car just as an Ohio State trooper passes.  He looks at us, I look at him.   I’m sure we make eye contact. I can’t tell for sure as we’re both wearing sunglasses. Just a bit anxious I tell Jack he better have a good story prepared when that trooper comes back.  As he’s telling me I worry too much when we see the flashing red and blue lights pull up.  Jack stops changing batteries, sets the camera down, gets out of car, and goes out to talk to the trooper.  He asks if everything is all right.  Jack confesses to taking roadside pictures and says he hopes we pulled off in a safe place.  Reassured by the trooper we are released without arrest.  The only official action was to wish us a good weekend.

Heading to Ohio

October 15, 2010

Day 37

Day 37
October 15, 2010.

Maumee, OH to Chicago, IL

With the exception of our walk at Oberlin College yesterday, Ohio is mainly a state we’re passing through.  The landscape gradually evolves from rolling hills to flat fields of farmland.  The countryside of the New York Amish was a patchwork of small farms quilted together with cornfields, open pastures of cattle and horses, and distant hills covered in the fading colors of autumn.

As we move through Ohio the small fields and farms give way to open acres of dried corn and larger cattle pastures.  Gone is the bent worker cutting neat rows of dried corn and loading them in a horse drawn wagon.  Here manual harvest of crops is replaced by today’s shiny green John Deere tractors plowing cleared fields and red harvesters cutting corn.  Assorted pickup trucks of silver, grey and blue replace the black leather horse drawn carts.  It’s all farming, just a question of scale and sweat.  Small islands of trees interrupt the fields and we can clearly see that the hills are behind us; flat fields and farmlands stretch before us.

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Shopping in Amish Country

Day 37
October 14, 2010

Shopping in Amish Country

We slowed down more than once for an Amish carriage last night as we were driving through southwestern New York.  The back of the carriages gives caution to approaching vehicles with reflective tape and warning triangles.  But, in the dusk, they are less obvious to an oncoming vehicle.  As sunset moved to twilight, twilight to dusk, the landscape was enveloped in the darkness.  An occasional house was brightly lit with Halloween decorations welcoming the season, but the majority of the houses sat still in the darkness.  A few glowed with dim light, maybe a candle or a hurricane lamp.  The majority of homes seemed to be living a lifestyle of work tied to the hours of sunlight.  “Early to bed, early to rise.”

We were not among those to rise early today, but when we cleaned out the car and got our stuff stuffed in again, we headed to the area knows as The Amish Trail of New York.   The Amish of this area are Old Order Amish.  They are conservative and traditional.  They make their living using old fashioned farming practices raising cattle, feed crops, and family gardens. They make and sell baked good, canned goods, furniture, iron work, quilting, crafts and more.  Houses will have multiple fire chimneys as these Amish live without electricity, phones, cars and other conveniences we take for granted in our high tech lives.

It’s hard to reconcile this quiet landscape and simple lifestyle with the bright lights and crowded bustle of Manhattan on the eastern side of the state.  We move slower along these roads.  Men and women with children tucked in their buggies nod, smile and wave as we pass along the tree lined roads.  Small hand painted signs let the tourist know what goods are for sale from their homes.  We make two stops.  At the first home we pull in side by side with a young woman and toddler in their buggy.  As we park, she tethers her horse to a hitching post and goes into the house.  The sign says “OPEN”, but the lights are out – obviously because there’s no electricity. 



But, the sign also asks the tourist to honk their horn to announce their arrival.  I take a few steps towards the shop, then a few steps towards the car.  To honk or not to honk, that is the question.  I don’t want to startle or spook the horse, but I want to see what they have to offer.  This is personal shopping.  A woman sees me edging towards the door, edging towards the car and calls from the house that her daughter is coming.  She’s beautiful in her grey dress, white apron and navy blue cap.  She comes in and sits quietly at a small table.  There is no light, but we can see canned pickles, beets, and jams on wooden plank shelves and hanging from a rod are quilts and pillows.  Cookbooks, home remedy books, coloring books are for sale.  We find two items.  All transactions are cash only.  We knew this and have cash.

I’m on a small mission to find two specific roads and along the way we see another hand painted sign and stop. 



Across the street an older man and little boy, dressed identically in black jacket and pants with straw hats, pull into a huge red barn.  Not so shy this time I walk up the steps, open the gate and a woman welcomes me.  She’s a bit older than me and we strike up a conversation.  She tells me that the materials are all made by people of ‘their community’ which spreads throughout this area.  In this community there are 12 churches, but usually only six open every other Sunday and they attend one of the open churches.  While we visit I hear someone opening the door from the house to the shop.  A little girl, three years old, slips in and cuddles her grandmother.  We exchange grandchildren stories.  She has six children and 21 grandchildren.  I tell her I have two children and 2 grandkids.  She chuckles a bit and says if I wanted more grandchildren, I needed to have more children.  We both laugh.  Wanting to fit in a bit more I tell her that my sister Teresa has six children and at least twelve grandchildren.  “Ah, maybe she will have twenty-one like me.”, she says.  I smile and say. ”Perhaps.”  We talk about the difference between her valley and New York city.  She’s heard of the bright lights and busy streets, but can’t imagine.  Many tourists come to their valley, mainly people like us who come from out of state and seek simple shops.  “No big buses stop here.”, she says and we agree that is probably a good thing.  Most of her quilts are bought by single shoppers and they do get a fabulous bargain.  She has numerous bed sized quilts, as did the other store.  They all sell for easily under $500.00 and some for a few hundred dollars less.  The piecing is impeccable.  Star points match every time.  The quilting is hand done and varies from neat, fine stitches to the uneven stitches of a beginner or older quilter.  Regardless of the stitches the quilts are all beautiful.  Though their lifestyle is far from modern, they are not immune to some of the pitfalls of modern life.  They were recently robbed.   Her daughter was across the road washing the buggy.  She saw a man in a pickup truck park and enter the shop.  Instinctively she checked the license plate.  He told her he was looking for a quilt for his grandmother and hurried off.  She called the sheriff when she found the cash box had been emptied.  Fortunately he was caught, but it upset their sense of security.  We talk a bit more about family and kids.  We make a few purchases and head west again.

A few hours later  We breeze through  a toll road in Ohio on our E-Z PASS that we bought in New York, activated on our cell phone and paid for with our AMEX card while is ‘on file’ and will automatically add credit when the card gets under $10.00.  It’s clear we are out of Amish Country!